Our Process.
Installed In A Day, The Masters Way.
Most of what makes an egress install good is invisible by the time we leave. The drainage bed, the stone, the clean cuts, the containment. We built our process around getting those details right, because that is what you are actually paying for.
Step 01
Send The Basics.
Send your name, contact details, city, and a few photos that show the basics. That is usually enough for us to understand the space and get you moving toward a fast estimate.
- Most projects enlarge an existing window. We look at the proposed opening, concrete depth, and header requirements upfront, so nothing is a surprise on install day.
- Photos help us spot tight access, patios, utilities, grade issues, and drainage routes before they become problems. That means a cleaner quote and a smoother job.
Step 02
Review For Quote.
We use the photos and project details to assess drainage, opening size, well clearance, access, utilities, landscaping, and exterior finishes. The goal is a fast quote that still accounts for the details that affect the job.
- Inside, we plan plastic barriers and support before a single tool touches the wall. Small details make or break your customer experience, and we take that seriously.
- If the project requires built-up wood or steel headers, exterior lintels, joist hangers, or engineered details, we plan for them before cutting, not after the opening is already in the wall.
Step 03
Dig And Drain.
We mark the window well placement against the foundation, then dig cleanly and protect landscaping, patios, lawns, and driveways wherever the work touches. Others prefer machines. We see hand digging as the better choice for accuracy, property protection, tight access, and finished areas.
- A 4 inch drain inside a 4 inch dirt hole is not the answer when you are digging a bowl on the side of your home. We excavate a 24 inch mini dry well around the drain, tied into a 12 inch stone bed under the sill, so the drain is surrounded by material that actually moves water.
- Excavation goes to the weeping tile, not just deep enough to look right. Native soil out, 3/4 clear stone in, drainage tested and documented. If there is an issue with the existing system, you will know before the window goes in.
Step 04
Cut And Install.
The opening is marked precisely and cut from the exterior with water and specialized saws: less dust in your home, a cleaner edge, and no risk of overcut corners that compromise the foundation.
- Overcutting looks minor. It is not. The fixes are expensive, the damage is structural, and it is the kind of thing that may not show up until later.
- Installation includes a water dam, positive drainage slope, professional-grade adhesive foams, proper fastening, and header details where the project calls for them.
Step 05
Wells And Finishing.
Your choice of basic steel, custom wood, or masonry window wells are fastened with tapcons or epoxy anchors, then backfilled in stages with attention to compaction, drainage, and how it looks from the yard. Safety does not have to be ugly. A functioning egress exit should also complement the exterior of your home.
- Filter fabric separates silty soil from the drainage stone, protecting the drainage system and keeping the well performing years from now, not just on install day.
- Water collected in the well is directed toward the existing weeping tile. It has somewhere to go, instead of becoming the kind of drainage emergency people call about later.
Step 06
Clean Finish. Clear Exit.
We clean the site, wash down the home and driveways where needed, then cap the window to complete the install. Capping is included because it looks better than thick, messy caulking and adds another layer of protection over the life of the window.
- Warranty coverage starts after the window is capped: 3 years for drainage or leak-related work, and 5 years for parts and window components.
- The job is finished when the site looks like we were never there, except for a safer basement, a cleaner exterior, and a clear exit that meets code and lasts.